When I repatriated myself and my family to Australia in 1998, my NBC membership (“Nothing But Chardonnay”) often put me in a lonely position against my friends, most of them in the ABC camp (“Anything But Chardonnay”).

I am delighted to see my unabated passion for Chardonnay finally vindicated after 15 years with winemakers releasing to market wines which are beautifully crafted, complex, subtle, well balanced and often at very affordable prices.

My latest discovery is the Reserve Chardonnay 2010 made by Centennial Vineyards (Tony Cosgriff, winemaker / John Large, owner).

I have been a strong supporter (and regular customer) of this vineyard for many years, discovering at first their reserve Chardonnay 2004 (thanks to James Halliday) and then rapidly extending my enthusiasm to their Shiraz Viognier, Rondinella Corvina (unfortunately discontinued), Tempranillo and Cabernet Sauvignon.

But coming back to the Chardonnay, I have seen Tony’s production constantly improve along the years with the 2008 vintage still a little heavy on fruit (but delicious after three years of cellaring), the 2009 more subtle although I would have preferred more Malolactic fermentation, finally reaching a peak in 2010.

The grapes were hand-picked at the Bantry Grove vineyard in Orange located 900-950 meters above the sea level; this high altitude provides a colder climate than Bowral but the area also has less cloud cover during the season which means more sunlight and more ripening potential than Bowral, hence the richer style. Plus, Tony threw “the whole winemaking bag at them” (quoting him).

Wild ferment (30%), Malolactic fermentation (60%), lees stirring, maturation in 100% French Oak (30% new) and 9 month on lees, all contribute to giving the wine a  great complexity, texture and a good balance between the fruit (very subtle range of peach, nectarine and grapefruit) and the oak (very light). Long palate. A beauty.

This wine was bottled in February 2011 and will not be released for another 6 or 12 months but it is already wonderful now and will cellar well for up to five years…if you can resist drinking it until then.

James Halliday gives a score of 95. I couldn’t agree more. Price: to be announced but probably $30 to $35.